A

AHP: Automatic High Precision - A swinging rotor drives a mini-generator. Its electric power is stored in a capacitor, which supplies energy to the Quartz-controlled integrated circuit.

Alarm - A watch feature that sounds an alarm at pre-set times or at regular intervals.

Altimeter - A device that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure, commonly found in pilot watches. (Note that inside a pressurized airplane cabin, the altimeter will register as if on land.)

Anolog Digital - A watch that has both a digital display and hands of a conventional watch. Usually featured on sport watch styles.

Analog Quarts-The most commonly used term for any analog timepiece that operates on a battery or on solar power; regulated by a quartz crystal.

Analog watch - A watch with a dial, hands and numbers or markers that present the complete display of a 12-hour time span.

ASS - Servo-controlled motor drive. The system, integrated in the circuit, lengthens the duration of motor impulse when the mechanism meets resistance (during date-change, for example) and reverts to the normal duration when the resistance ends. The technique increases battery life by 30%.

Atmosphere - Unit of pressure used in watchmaking to indicate water resistance.

Auto Repeat Timer - A feature that allows for continuous operation of a countdown timer. If timer function is set at one hour and started, it will count down to zero, beep with a warning signal and immediately return to the preset time and start the countdown again. This continues until the stop button is pushed.

Automatic movement - A type of watch movement that is all mechanical and requires no winding, because the rotor, part of the automatic mechanism, winds the mainspring every time you move your hand. When fully wound and left to sit, most automatics will have up to 36 hours of reserve power. Mechanical movements are accurate within one minute each day. Automatic movements also do not require a battery for power; their power comes from the winding of the watch’s mainspring. See also Quartz Movement.

B

Baguette - Ladies’ watch with a thin, elongated face; usually rectangular in shape, but may be oval.

Balance Spring - A spiral hairspring inside an automatic watch that supports the balance wheel. The balance wheel oscillates, or vibrates, dividing time into equal segments. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch.

Balance Wheel - The regulating organ of a watch with a mechanical movement that vibrates on a spiral hairspring, called a balance spring. The balance wheel oscillates, dividing time into equal segments. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch.

Bar of Lug - A small rod with a spring pivot at either end to fix the bracelet (band) to the watch case.

Bar SettingsSimilar to a channel setting (see below). A bar setting uses a thin, circular bar of metal to hold the stones in place on either side, so that each bar has a stone on either side of it.

Base Metal - Any non-precious metal.

Battery - A device that converts chemical energy into electricity. Most watch batteries are the silver oxide type, delivering 1.5 volts. Much longer-lasting lithium batteries deliver 3 volts.

Battery Life - The minimum period of time that a battery will continue to provide power to run the watch. Life begins at the point of manufacture when the factory initially installs the battery.

Bearding - The term given to the very small feathers (small fractures that touch the diamond’s surface) along the edge of a diamond, usually appearing at the girdle, or widest part, of the diamond.

Bezel - The surface ring on a watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional (able to move clockwise or counterclockwise), they can assist in calculations for elapsed times.

Bezel Facet - The facet located on the crown, or top portion, of a diamond. Jewelers call this the “kite” facet because of its shape

Bezel Setting - Holds a diamond in place using a thin band of metal that surrounds the diamond at its middle, or girdle. Bezel settings completely or partially surround the stone, depending on the style and look desired, and provide good protection for the middle and bottom (pavilion) portions of the diamond

Blemisch - A clarity characteristic that occurs on the surface of a diamond. Though some blemishes are inherent to the original rough diamond, most are the result of the environment the diamond has encountered since it was unearthed. For more information on the most commonly-occurring types of blemishes, please see our detailed discussion, The Four Cs: Clarity.

Bracelet - A bracelet is the flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as the watch case. Detachable links change the length of the bracelet. Bracelets can be made of stainless steel, sterling silver, gold, or a combination. See also Strap.

Brass - An alloy, or mixture of copper and zinc that is used to make the main plate and certain wheels in a watch movement.

Brilliance - The brightness that seems to come from the very heart of a diamond. It is the effect that makes diamonds unique among all other gemstones. While other gemstones also display brilliance, none have the power to equal the extent of diamond's light-reflecting power. Brilliance is created primarily when light enters through the table, reaches the pavilion facets, and is then reflected back out through the table, where the light is most visible to your eye.

Brilliant Cut - A type of round cut that gives the diamond 57 or 58 facets mathematically devised to produce the greatest brilliance. “Cut” here really refers more to the diamond’s shape than its proportions

Buckle - Usually matching the case, it attaches the two parts of the leather bracelet around the wrist.

Button - Push-piece controls, usually at 2 o'clock and/or 4 o'clock on the dial, that control special functions such as the chronograph or the alarm.

C

Cabochon Crown - A rounded, semi-precious stone or synthetic material (usually black) that is fitted into the watch crown as an ornament.

Calendar - A watch feature that shows the date and sometimes the day of the week and month. It can be displayed through a cutout window in the dial, as a sub-dial with small hands indicating the day/date feature or by digital readout.

Caliber - The dimensions of the watch. Caliber describes the size and configuration of the movement and can now indicate the shape, origin and conductor as well.

Cambered - Often used in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel.

Carat - Measurement of a diamond's weight. A carat is equal to 200 milligrams. (Don’t confuse this Carat with the term “Karat,” which is a measure of the purity of gold.) For accuracy, diamonds should be weighed when they are not mounted in a setting. Each Carat is divided into 100 parts called “points,” so a 1-carat diamond has 100 points, a ¾ carat has 75 points, etc.

Carbon Spots - Misnomer used by some people in the jewellery industry to describe the appearance of certain inclusions in a diamond. “Carbon spots” are actually included crystals that have a dark appearance, rather than a white or transparent appearance, when viewed under a microscope. In most cases, these dark inclusions are not visible to the naked eye and do not affect the brilliance of the diamond.

Case (or Watchcase) - The metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used, but titanium, gold, silver and platinum can also be used. Less expensive watches are usually made of brass that has been plated with gold or silver.

certificate - A guarantee by an independent laboratory that the diamond is indeed of the quality the seller represents. Diamonds are certified by an independent gemological laboratory with skilled gemologists who use specialized equipment to measure and evaluate each diamond’s particular characteristics and attributes.

Channel Setting - A setting where two strips of metal (gold, platinum, etc.) hold the diamond(s) in place at the sides. There is no metal between the stones. This type of setting protects the girdle area of the diamond and secures small stones more effectively than a prong setting. Channel-set diamonds also sit flush with the mounting, making them less likely to get snagged on other objects, such as hair or clothing.

Chonograph - A chronograph is a name given to a multifunction sport watch with a stopwatch function. Most have two or three sub-dials, or mini-dials, for measuring minutes and hours. The term ‘chronograph’ is often confused with ‘chronometer’.

Chronometer - A chronometer is a precision watch that has been rigorously tested by the Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers (COSC), an official watch testing laboratory in Switzerland, to keep accurate time in various temperatures and positions over a 15-day period. The watch must lose no more than five seconds per day in order to be designated a chronometer. Most watch companies either provide this certificate with a purchase or it can be mailed to you. The term ‘chronometer’ is often confused with ‘chronograph’.

Clarity - Measured by a jeweler’s loupe (a small magnifying glass used to view gemstones) under 10-power magnification. The FTC [Federal Trade Commission?] requires all diamond grading be done under 10-power magnification; any flaws not detected under this magnification are considered to be non-existent.

Clasp - The attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet around the wrist. There are six types of clasps:
1) Deployment Buckle -A three-folding enclosure that secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully spread out. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.
2) Fold-Over Buckle -See Deployment buckle
3) Hook Lock -Two separate units, fitting on either end of the bracelet, which allow the watch to be laid out. One end of the closure hooks onto the other to secure the two ends of the bracelet.
4) Jeweler's Clasp -A closure that is generally used on better bracelets. Also allows the watch to lie flat.
5) Sliding Clasp -Also a hook-type closure, but allows for easy sizing of the bracelet by sliding.
6) Twist Lock -A closure similar to Jeweler's Clasp used on ladies’ jewellery bracelets.

Cleavage - The propensity of crystalline minerals, such as diamond, to split in one or more directions either along or parallel to certain planes, when struck by a blow. Diamond cutters use one of two processes--cleaving or sawing--to split rough diamond crystals in preparation for the cutting process.

Clouds - A grouping of a number of extremely tiny inclusions too small to be distinguishable from one another, even under magnification. But under a microscope, this grouping often looks like a soft transparent cloud inside the diamond. Clouds cannot be seen with the naked eye, so usually do not significantly impact a diamond's clarity grade. FORTREZ will not sell any diamond with clouds severe enough to affect the brilliance of the diamond.

Cluster Setting - Several stones mounted together in a group, for a cluster effect. Often several small stones surround a central, larger stone.

Colour - The most important thing to know is that, in general, the less colour a diamond has, the more valuable it is, all other factors being equal. The less colour a diamond has, the more purely it can refract the light that enters it, making it sparkle with brilliance and fire. Diamond colours range from colourless to slightly yellow or brown, to more rare and costly pink, green or blue stones (commonly referred to as “fancy” diamonds). Excluding “fancy” diamonds, the ideal colour for a diamond is colourless, although this is extremely rare.

Colour Grading - A system of grading diamond colours based on their colourlessness (for white diamonds) or their spectral hue, depth of colour and purity of colour (for fancy colour diamonds). For white diamonds, HRD and IGI use a grading system which runs from D (totally colourless) to Z (light yellow).

Complication - A watch with other functions besides time keeping. For example, a chronograph is a watch complication. Other complications include: minute repeater, tourbillion, perpetual calendar, or split-second chronograph.

Corrector - System to set the watch indicators (hour, minute, day) by means of the crown.

Countdown Timer - Measures remaining time from preset period of time. For example, a countdown timer can be used to count down the time remaining in a sporting event.

Crown - The upper portion of a cut gemstone, which lies above the girdle. The crown comprises the table, and the star- bezel- and upper-girdle facets. On round diamonds and most fancy cuts, the crown consists of a table facet surrounded by either star and bezel facets. On emerald cuts and other step cuts, the crown consists of concentric rows of facets reaching from the table to the girdle.

Crown - Nodule extending from the watchcase that is used to set the time, date, etc. Most pull out to set the time. In water-resistant styles, the crowns should screw down.

Crown Angle - A measurement of the angle, in degrees, formed by the facets of the upper portion, or crown, of the stone. The distance from the girdle (widest point) to the table (the flat facet at the top of the stone) determines whether the crown will be thick, thin or proportionally “ideal.” Therefore, the higher the crown, the steeper the crown angle will be; the thinner the crown, the shallower the crown angle will be. The angles at which the crown and pavilion facets (those facets below the girdle) are cut directly affects the diamond’s ability to refract light rays, which is what gives a diamond its remarkable fire and brilliance.

Crystal - A type of inclusion found in some diamonds. It is simply a mineral deposit that has been trapped inside the diamond. Crystals are usually indicated on diamond grading reports. Be aware that the location and size of the crystal may have a direct bearing on the diamond’s value.

Crystal - The cover over the watch face is called the crystal. There are three types of crystals commonly found in watches: 1) Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out: 2) Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated to create an unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches; and 3) Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.

Culet - The point on the bottom of a diamond's pavilion. On some diamonds, the culet is actually formed into a facet; in others, it is formed into a point. Therefore, round diamonds can have either 58 or 57 facets, depending on whether the culet has been faceted or not.

Cut - The only one of the 4Cs that is within a human’s control. “Cut” refers to the geometric proportions to which a diamond is crafted (usually by a master diamond cutter with many years of experience). Once the diamond’s shape has been determined, facets are cut. These facets refract light like a prism and produce the stone’s fire and brilliance.

D

Day/Date Watch - A watch that indicates both the day of the week and the date.

Depth - The height of a diamond from the culet to the table. The depth is measured in millimeters.

Depth Alarm - An alarm on a diver’s watch that sounds when the wearer exceeds a pre-set depth. In most watches, it stops sounding when the diver ascends above that depth. See Diver’s Watches.

Depth Percentage - On a diamond grading report, there are two different measurements of the diamond's depth: 1) the actual depth in millimeters (under "measurements" at the top of the report); and 2) the depth percentage, which expresses how deep the diamond is in comparison to how wide it is. This depth percentage of a diamond is important to its brilliance and value, but it only tells part of the story. Where that depth lies is equally important to the diamond's beauty; specifically, the pavilion should be just deep enough to allow light to “bounce around” inside the diamond and reflect out to the eye at the proper angle. Keep in mind, also, that correct depth percentages vary based on the diamond’s cut. For example, a 75% or 78% depth in a princess cut diamond would be typical and quite attractive. However, a depth of even 65% would be unnecessary and even detrimental to a round diamond's beauty.

Dial - The watch face that contains the numerals, indices or surface design. While these parts are usually applied, some may be printed on. Sub-dials are smaller dials set into the main face of the watch. These can be used for added functions, such as elapsed times and dates.

Diamond - Pure crystallized carbon, the simplest of all the gemstones. A diamond begins to crystallize far beneath the earth's surface among a mixture of liquids, gases, and crystals, called Kimberlite magma (after the city of Kimberley, South Africa, where diamonds were found in the 1870s). Since Kimberlite is lighter than surrounding rocks, it rises as gas from the earth's mantle, creating carrot-shaped pipes through which diamonds reach the earth's surface. Diamonds can be from 1 to 3 billion years old--more than two-thirds the age of the Earth itself. Diamond is also the hardest substance known to man. In fact, it can only be cut and polished by another diamond. Despite its hardness, however, it is not indestructible. If a diamond is struck at the right angle, it can chip or break.

Diamond Cutting - The method by which a rough diamond mined from the earth is shaped into a finished, faceted stone. First, the diamond often undergoes cleaving or sawing to separate the rough into smaller, more workable pieces, which will each eventually become an individual polished gem. Next, bruting grinds away the edges, providing the outline shape (for example, heart, oval or round) for the gem. Faceting is next and is achieved in two steps: 1) during blocking, the table, culet, bezel and pavilion main facets are cut; afterward, 2) the star, upper girdle and lower girdle facets are added. Once the fully faceted diamond has been inspected and improved, it is boiled in hydrochloric and sulfuric acids to remove dust and oil. The diamond is then considered a finished, polished gem.

Diamond Gauge - An instrument used to measure a diamond's length, width and depth in millimeters.

Dichroic - A liquid-crystal display (LCD) enabling a colour to appear or vanish on the surface.

Digital - The display of time in numbers instead of hands on the dial. The numbers can appear in an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display), which shows a continuous reading or an LED (Light-Emitting Diode), which shows the time at the push of a button.

Digital Watch - A mechanical or solid-state watch that displays time via changes of digits, rather than positions of hands on the dial. The numbers can appear in an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display), which shows a continuous reading or an LED (light-emitting diode), which shows the time at the push of a button. See Analog Watch.

Directional Compass - Can be displayed by rotating a bezel or digital readout on the face of the watch. It is used to determine a geographical direction using the location of the sun.

Dispersion - Arranged around the table facet on the crown are several smaller facets (bezel and star facets) angled downward at varying degrees. These facets and their angles have been skillfully designed to break up white light as it hits the surface, separating it into its component spectral colours (for example, red, blue and green). This rainbow effect, which appears as a play of small flashes of colour across the surface of the diamond as it is tilted, is what we refer to as the diamond's dispersion (also called "fire"). This play of colour should not be confused with a diamond's natural body colour (normally white, though sometimes yellow, brown, pink or blue in the case of fancy colour diamonds). A diamond’s natural body colour is uniform throughout the entire diamond and is constant, regardless of whether it is being tilted or not.

Divers Watches - Diver’s watches are designed and manufactured especially for divers whose lives depend on the reliability of his/her watch in the water.

Diver’s watches must meet various standards regarding water resistance, pressure resistance, readability in the water, time pre-setting function (using a rotating elapsed-time bezel), anti-magnetic ability, anti-shock, rust-resistance in salt water, manageability in water, ability to withstand sudden temperature changes, and others.
Many diver's watches also have features such as:
-Rotating bezel that will only rotate counter clockwise, so if it is rotated accidentally, the bezel will not show an extended diving duration. For accurate setting, the bezel also has a one-minute interval click.
-The battery replacement month, inscribed on the watchcase back is to prevent the watch from stopping during a dive.
-Bracelets that feature extra-large buckles for easy fastening and longer length to allow them to be worn over a diving suit.
-High-set bezel, set higher than the surface of the crystal, to help protect it.
-Large luminous hands and markers designed for clear readability.

Dual Timer - A watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, sub-dials or other means.

E

Electroplating Process - Process of covering metal articles with a film of other metals. The article is immersed in a chemical solution; electric current (D.C.) flows through the solution from a piece of metal (anode) to the article (cathode), depositing metal on it by electrolysis. Metals that can be used for plating are:
1) gold -a precious metal generally yellow in colour;
2) chrome -can be white or black;
3) palladium -a precious metal, generally white; and
4) ruthenium -also a precious metal, usually gray.

Emerald Cut - A square or rectangular-shaped diamond with cut corners. On the crown, there are three concentric rows of facets arranged around the table; and on the pavilion, there are three concentric rows arranged around the culet. This type of cut is also known as a Step Cut because its broad, flat planes resemble stair steps

EOE - End of Energy. System used with an Automatic High Precision (AHP) function that alerts the wearer of accumulator discharge by causing the second hand to jump every four seconds instead of every second. The accumulator then can be recharged by turning the crown.

EOL - End of Life. In Quartz movement, the end of battery life is indicated by the second hand, which starts to jump every four seconds. The battery should be changed immediately.

Escapement - This part of the watch restricts the electrical or mechanical impulses of the gear train, metering out the passage of time into equal, regular parts. Without the escapement, the mainspring would simply unwind in a matter of seconds and the watch would stop.

External Reflection - Finely polished diamonds should display a high degree of external reflection. The finer the polish, the brighter and more lustrous the diamond will be. External reflection should not be confused with internal refraction, which refers to the primary light refraction that causes a diamond's fire and brilliance to occur inside its facets. External reflection refers to the light rays that are reflected back to the viewer's eye from the surface of the stone itself.

- An expression that jewelers use to designate a gem whose flaws or inclusions cannot be detected without a loupe.

F

Face - The visible side of the watch where the dial is contained; most are printed with Arabic or Roman numerals. Note: traditionally IIII, rather than IV, is used to indicate the 4 o'clock position.

Facets - Flat planes or surfaces on a diamond. Each facet must be cut in exact geometric relation to the other facets to create the most fire and brilliance.

Fancy Shape - Any diamond shape other than round.

Feather - A type of inclusion that occurs naturally in diamonds. Feathers are simply small fractures, shaped like a bird's feather, that touch the stone's surface. Feathers are noted on the diamond’s grading report.

Finish - The qualities imparted to a diamond by the skill of the diamond cutter. The term "finish" covers every aspect of a diamond's appearance that is not a result of the diamond's inherent nature when it comes out of the ground. When a gemologist grades finish, he considers the execution of the diamond's design, the precision of its cutting details, and the quality of its polish. On a diamond's grading report, you will see the diamond’s finish, graded according to two separate categories: polish and symmetry.

Fluorescent - When exposed to ultraviolet light, small percentages of diamonds fluorescence, or emit light. Fluorescence does not necessarily affect a diamond's value; however, it is listed on a diamond grading report as None, Slight, Medium, Strong or Very Strong. Some reports also list the colour of the fluorescence (e.g. blue, yellow, white, etc.). Be aware that stones which give off blue light may actually be more valuable, since the blue light can make them appear "whiter" in daylight or fluorescent lighting.

Flyback Hand - A second hand on a chronograph that is used to determine lap or finishing times for several competitors. To operate, put both the Flyback and the regular second hand in motion; then to record a lap or finishing time, the Flyback hand can be stopped. After taking the results, push a button and the Flyback hand will catch up to the constantly moving second hand.

Frequentie - The number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).

G

Gear Train - The series of small gears in both quartz- and mechanical-movement watches responsible for transmitting the power from the battery (in a quartz watch) or spring (in a mechanical watch) to the escapement, which distributes the impulses to mark the time.

Girdle - The outermost edge of a diamond that sits in the setting, separating the upper and lower sections of the stone. The girldle varies in thickness, depending on how it was faceted by a cutter during manufacturing.

Girdle Thickness - A diamond's girdle, or outermost edge that separates the upper and lower sections of the stone, varies in thickness depending on how it was faceted by a cutter during manufacturing. If the girdle is too thin, or the stone may chip. If it is too thick, the diamond’s brilliance may be reduced. A properly cut girdle should be even all the way around. If the girdle appears to be a wide band around the diamond, it's probably too thick. If you can hardly see it, it's probably too thin.

Gold - Precious metal, which is stainless and very malleable. The portion of gold in an alloy, or mixture of gold and other metals, is indicated in Karats (K). Pure gold is 24-Karat (24K), 18-Karat gold is 75% pure, etc.

Guilloché - A style of intricate engraving popular on watch dials, usually made of very thin lines interwoven to create a surface texture.

H

Hands - The pointing device anchored at the center and circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds and any other special features of the watch. There are many different types of hands:

1) Alpha Hand: A hand that is slightly tapered
2) Baton Hand: A narrow hand sometimes referred to as a ‘stick hand’
3) Dauphine Hand: A wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running the length of the hand
4) Skeleton Hand: Cutout hands showing only the frame
5) Luminous Hand: Hand made of skeleton form with the opening filled with a luminous material

Hard Metal - A scratch-resistant metal made by binding several materials, including titanium and tungsten carbide, which are then pressed into an extremely hard metal and polished with diamond powder to add brilliance.

Heart-Shape Cut - A type of fancy diamond cut, which is cut to resemble the popular Valentine's Day shape.

High-Tech Ceramic - Used as a protective shield for spacecraft reentering the earth's atmosphere, high-tech ceramic is polished with diamond dust to create an extremely shiny finish. Because the ceramic can be injection molded, pieces can be contoured. It has a very smooth surface, usually found in black, but can be produced in a spectrum of colours.

Horology - The science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.

Hourly Time Signal - Single beep/chime that rings on the hour, every hour, when it is engaged.

HRD - De Hoge Raad voor Diamant (Diamond High Council) is a prestigious independent European gemological certification laboratory based in Antwerp, Belgium that began grading diamonds and providing grading reports in 1976. The HRD does not sell diamonds, but acts as a consultant in the grading of precious gems. It is important to note that a grading report provided by any gemological laboratory is NOT a statement of the monetary value of a particular stone (like an appraisal), but a professional opinion that evaluates only its quality.

I

IGI - International Gemological Institute. One of the largest, most respected gemological institutions in the world. The IGI is an independent laboratory whose trained gemologists grade diamond quality and provide a grading report along with each stone they grade. The IGI does not sell diamonds, but acts as a consultant in the grading of precious gems, as well as provides educational courses in diamonds and diamond grading. Founded in Antwerp in 1975, the IGI has offices in Antwerp, New York, Bangkok and Mumbai.

Inclusion - A small cloud, feather, crystal or other blemish that occurs naturally inside or on the surface of diamonds. The fewer inclusions, the more rare the diamond and the greater its value. A truly flawless diamond is extremely rare.

Invisible Setting - Invisible-set diamonds are placed very closely together, with the metal concealed underneath the diamonds, giving the appearance of a continuous, uninterrupted surface. Since the metal is not seen, this type of setting is an excellent way to showcase the brilliance of the diamonds themselves. It also allows an increased amount of light to enter the stone (and, thus give off more brilliance), since there are no prongs or bezels impeding the light's entry.

J

Jewels - Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for gears of a mechanical watch. A quality hand-wound or automatic mechanical watch contains at least 17 jewels.

K

Karat - Measurement of gold purity. Pure gold is 24-Karat (24K); 18-Karat gold is 75% pure.

Kinetic - Based on a revolutionary technology, kinetic watches run entirely on self-generated electrical energy from the natural movement of your wrist. The mainspring is wound by the motion of your wrist. As it unwinds, it causes a rotor to turn, which generates electrical energy in a coil. The electricity causes a quartz crystal to vibrate at an exceptionally high and regular speed, which powers the motion work that tells the time.

L

Laser Drill Holes - One of the few man-made inclusions that can occur inside a diamond. But why on earth would anyone want to drill holes into a perfectly good diamond? It may seem counter-intuitive, but drilling this type of hole into a diamond can actually raise its clarity grade. In some diamonds, clarity is downgraded by the presence of just one or two dark included crystals. In these circumstances, the diamond cutter might decide to use a procedure to remove the dark inclusions in an effort to increase the clarity of the diamond. First, he drills a precise hole, about the size of a pinprick, with state-of-the-art equipment. Next, he forces a strong acid solution into the new hole. Since diamonds are resistant to acids, the solution actually dissolves the included crystal while leaving the diamond completely unharmed. The end result is a more transparent diamond. The structural stability of the diamond is not compromised in any way by this hole (usually detectable only by a microscope or a loupe), and the process is permanent. Laser drilled diamonds are not sold at Fortrez.

LCD - Liquid Crystal Display. A digital time display that gives additional chronograph indications.

LED - Light-Emitting Diode. An LED is a semiconductor diode that emits infrared or visible light (electroluminescence) when charged with an electric current. When arranged in a matrix, LEDs are used as alphanumeric displays that can show day, date, time and other functions. See also LCD.

Length to With Ratio - A diamond is more long than wide and this ratio measures that relationship. In this ratio, width is always represented by the value "1." To determine the value of the length, divide the millimeter measurement of the length by the millimeter measurement of the width. These millimeter measurements can be found at the top left-hand side of the diamond grading report. Length-to-width ratio is used to analyze the outline of fancy shapes only; it is never applied to round diamonds. There is no 'ideal' ratio; it's simply a matter of personal aesthetic preferences.

Lighted Dials - Several types of lighted dials are used so that you can tell time in the dark. Recently, a patented night-light process, called electro-luminescence, lights the entire dial with a uniform light that makes for easy reading in nighttime situations. A side button activates the light.

Loupe - A small magnifying glass used to view gemstones, usually 10x, or ten-power, magnification. The FTC requires all diamond grading be done under 10-power magnification; any flaws not detected under this magnification are considered to be non-existent.

Lugs - Extensions on either side of the bezel, where the bracelet is attached.

LumiBrite - Environmentally safe illumination technology that will glow brightly for hours without pushing a button or drawing energy from a battery.

Luminous - Self-illuminating paint used on hands and markers.

M

Mainspring - The mainspring is the energy source responsible for powering the watch movement (as opposed to a battery in a watch with a quartz crystal movement). The spring is wound, either manually, using the winding stem, or automatically, by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Potential energy is stored in the coiled spring, which is then released to the gear train, which transmits the power to the escapement and motion work, which turns the hands on the watch dial.

Manual - A hand-wound mechanical watch.

Mechanical

Mechanical Movement - A watch movement that uses a mainspring that is wound by hand. When wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical movement requires no winding because the balance wheel winds the mainspring every time you move your wrist.

Military or 24-Hour Time - Time measured in 24-hour segments. To convert 12-hour time into 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time from 13 to 24.

Mineral Glass - Watch glass that has been tempered to increase its scratch resistance.

Minute Repeater - A complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.

Moon Phase - An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother-of-Pearl - Iridescent, milky interior shell of the fresh water mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky-white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colours, such as silvery-gray, gray-blue, pink and salmon.

Motion Work - A series of parts inside a watch that receive power from the escapement and gear train, which distribute and generate the watch’s power. The motion work is responsible for actually turning the watch’s hands.

Mounting - The part of a ring that holds the diamond(s) in place. It is usually made of gold or platinum.

Movement - A watch’s main timekeeping mechanism is called its movement. Today’s watch movements fall into two categories: Automatic Mechanical or Quartz. Automatic Mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a series of gear mechanisms. Most automatic movements are wound by the normal, everyday movement of your wrist, which charges the watch’s winding reserve. Quartz movements are powered by a battery and do not stop working once removed from your wrist.

N

Naturals - Small parts of the original rough diamond's surface that are left on the polished diamond, frequently on or near the girdle. While these are blemishes, naturals may also be regarded as a sign of skilled cutting; leaving a natural reflects the cutter's ability to design a beautiful polished gem, while still retaining as much of the original crystal's weight as possible. In many cases, naturals do not affect the clarity grade. In most cases, they are undetectable to the naked eye. Another type of natural is the Indented Natural; in this case, the natural dips slightly inward, creating an indentation. Usually, the cutter makes an effort to cut the polished diamond so that the indented natural will be confined to either the girdle or the pavilion, making it undetectable to the naked eye in the face-up position.

O

Oscillation - The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again. See Vibration.

Oval Cut - A type of fancy shape diamond; essentially, an elongated version of a round cut.

P

P.V.D - Physical Vapor Deposition. Method of coating thin watchcases by integrating titanium particles and then depositing gold for colour.

Pavé - A style of jewellery setting in which numerous small diamonds are mounted close together to create a glistening diamond crust that covers the whole piece of jewellery and obscures the metal beneath.

Pavilion - The lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle.

Pear Cut - A type of fancy shape diamond that resembles a teardrop.

Perpetual Calendar - A type of calendar that automatically adjusts for months of different lengths and indicates February 29 in each leap year.

Plating - Coating a metal base with another metal. In watchmaking, a stainless steel base is coated with gold 7 to 20 microns thick.<:p>

Platinum - One of the most rare of the precious metals, platinum is also one of the strongest and heaviest, making it a popular choice for setting gemstone jewellery and watches. It has a rich, white luster and an understated look. Platinum is hypoallergenic and tarnish-resistant. When used in jewellery and watches, it is at least 85- to 95-percent pure. Many platinum watches are produced in limited editions due to the expense and rarity of the metal.

Points - Each carat in a diamond's weight is divided into 100 parts, called "points." A 1-Carat diamond has 100 points, a ¾ Carat has 75 points, etc. Points in a fraction of one carat are measured within ranges, so that a ¾ Carat diamond may have between .69 and .82 points and still be considered a ¾ carat.

Polish - Refers to any blemishes on the surface of the diamond which are not significant enough to affect the clarity grade of the diamond. Examples are faint polishing lines and small surface nicks or scratches. Polish is as important as cut when grading diamonds. Polish grades are Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor.

Polished - Brilliant metal surface on a watchcase created by using a fine abrasive.

Power Reserve - The time a watch will run with a fully charged power supply. For mechanical watches, it is usually 44 hours. For quartz watches, it can vary from 18 months to 10 years.

Princess Cut - A type of brilliant cut fancy shape that can be either square or rectangular.

Prong Setting - The diamond is held in place by a number of metal prongs, which rise above the main body of the ring and are bent over the stone to hold it in place. The number of prongs and their height above the main body of the ring vary according to the stone's shape.

Q

Quarts (or Quarts Crystal) - A natural or commercially synthesized silicon dioxide crystal used in "quartz analog" or solid-state digital watches. When activated by a battery or solar power, the thin sliver of crystal very predictably vibrates at an extremely high frequency (32,768 times per second), thus providing very accurate timekeeping. The main components are: an Electric Circuit Block (Quartz Oscillator and CMOS-IC) a Mechanical Block (step motor, gear train, hands) and a battery.

Quarts Crystal Movement - A movement that allows a watch to be worn without being wound. This technology employs the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain accuracy of time. A digital quartz watch has no mechanical parts, but is powered by a battery, which must be replaced about every 1½ years. A mechanical quartz watch can be powered manually by winding or automatically by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Numbers and letters are displayed on a Liquid Crystal Display (LCD). Most quartz movements are made in Hong Kong, Japan or Switzerland.

R

Radiant Cut - A type of brilliant cut fancy shape that resembles a square or rectangle with the corners cut off.

Ratchet Bezel Ring - A bezel ring that can either turn one way (counterclockwise) or both ways and generally clicks into place.

Ratio - A diamond is more long than wide and this ratio compares that relationship. In this ratio, width is always represented by the value "1." To determine the value of the length, divide the millimeter measurement of the length by the millimeter measurement of the width. These millimeter measurements can be found at the top left-hand side of the diamond grading report. Length-to-width ratio is used to analyze the outline of fancy shapes only; it is never applied to round diamonds. There is no 'ideal' ratio; it's simply a matter of personal aesthetic preferences.

Rose (or Pink) Gold - A softly hued gold that contains the same materials as yellow gold, but with a higher concentration of copper in the alloy. A popular colour in Europe, rose gold in watches is often seen in retro styling or in tricolour gold versions. Some 18K red gold watches achieve their colour from additional copper in the alloy.

S

Sandblasting - Creating a granular metal finish by using a high-pressure jet of sand.

Sapphire - Synthetic corundum crystal with a hardness second only to diamond. Transparent sapphire is used for scratchproof watch crystals.

Screw-Down Locking Crown - A crown that aids water resistance by sealing the crown against the watch case. The seal is achieved by the matching of a threaded pipe on the case with the crown's internal threads and gaskets, while twisting the crown to lock it into place.

Seal - Synthetic gaskets that seal the joints between parts of the watch case to keep out moisture.

Shape - Diamonds are available in seven shapes: round (also called brilliant or full-cut), marquise, pear, oval, princess, heart, pear and emerald. Which shape you choose is purely a matter of personal preference. Don't confuse a diamond's shape with its Cut, which is an evaluation of the diamond's proportions (and one of the 4C’s). Of course, the most popular and commonly seen shape for diamonds is the round or brilliant cut, which has 57 or 58 facets (depending on whether the culet, or point at the bottom of the stone, is faceted or not). It's the “classic” shape that most people think of when they think of a diamond. Often considered the ideal shape for a diamond, the round cut was first perfected by a diamond cutter and mathematician named Marcel Tolkowsky, in his dissertation on the subject in 1919. Tolkowsky was the first person to show that a diamond with 57 facets cut to specific proportions would result in the highest possible fire and brilliance. Over time, it became clear that it was not cost-effective to cut each and every diamond to these stringent requirements, since diamond weight was lost and the diamond apppeared smaller to the eye than a “standard” cut of the same weight.

Shock Absorbers - Spring devices in balance-wheel bearings that divert shocks away from the fragile pivot (usually 0.12mm diameter) to the sturdier parts of the balance staff. The springs allow the balance wheel to return to its original position after shocks.

Shock Resistance - If shock resistance is specified on a watchcase, a watch can withstand normal wear and tear, even during strenuous sport activities.

Shot Blasting - A satin finish obtained by using tiny glass pellets, one or two microns in diameter.

Single Cut - A very small round diamond with only 16 or 17 facets, instead of the normal 57 or 58 facets of a full cut round brilliant. Single cuts are occasionally used for pavé jewellery and other jewellery that uses numerous small diamonds set closely together.

Skeleton Case - A transparent front or back that permits viewing of the inner workings of the watch.

Slide Rule Bezel - A rotating bezel, or ring, around the outside edge of the watch case that is printed with a logarithmic scale and assorted other scales and is used in conjunction with fixed rules of mathematics to perform general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.

Solar Powered - A type of quartz movement where the batteries are recharged via solar panels on the watch face. They have a power reserve so they can even run in the dark.

Solid-State - A timepiece with no moving parts. All digital watches are 100% solid-state. Analog watches combine solid-state circuits with moving parts.

Split Seconds - A second chronograph that runs concurrently with the first, but can be stopped independently to record an intermediate time. It then catches up to run with the first hand again.

Split-Time Measurement - Measures the elapsed time at a certain moment of an event. For example, if you want to know the elapsed time at a certain point during a track meet, you can tell that exact time using this function. The chronograph keeps running while split-time is being displayed. Therefore, when split-time is released, the display returns to original measurement of total elapsed time.

Stainless Steel - An extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discolouration, and corrosion; it can be highly polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless steel is often used even on watch case backs on watches made of other metals.

Step Cut - One of three styles of faceting arrangements. In this type of arrangement (named because its broad, flat planes resemble stair steps), there are three concentric rows of facets arranged around the table, and on the pavilion, there are three concentric rows arranged around the culet. Other styles of faceting arrangements include the brilliant cut (in which all facets radiate from the center of the diamond to its outer edges) and the mixed cut (in which either the crown or pavilion of a diamond is cut as a brilliant cut, and the other part of the diamond is cut as a step cut).

Sterling Silver - A white and highly reflective precious metal. Sterling refers to silver that is 92.5% pure, which should be stamped on the metal. It is sometimes accompanied by the initials of the designer or country of origin as a hallmark. Although less durable than stainless steel and other precious metals, sterling silver is often employed in watches that coordinate [with?] or look like sterling jewellery. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnish.

Strap - A watchband made of leather, plastic or fabric.

Sub-Dial - A small dial used for any of several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating the date.

Sun/Moon Indicator - A wheel on a watch partially visible through a cutout window indicating the sun and moon on a 24-hour basis.

Super Accura - A watch that is accurate to ±10 seconds per year. Super-Accurante is a science that starts with quartz crystal oscillators working with a patented integrated circuit technology to assure that they’re up to 20 times more accurate than conventional quartz watches.

Sweep Second Hand - A second hand mounted in the center of the dial, instead of a subdial.

Symmetry - Part of a diamond's overall finish, symmetry is critical to a diamond's value and its ability to refract light. In order to have good symmetry, a diamond's facets must be cut exactly to specific mathematical proportions. Symmetry describes several factors: how the facet edges align with each other; whether the corresponding facets from opposite sides of the diamond align with each other; and whether the facets from the crown, or top, of the diamond are properly aligned with the corresponding ones on the bottom (pavilion). When choosing a diamond that has been graded for symmetry, look for Very Good or Good ratings.

T

Table - The flat facet on the top of the diamond. It is the largest facet on a cut diamond.

Table Percentage - A measurement of a diamond’s table width, relative to the width of the entire stone at its girdle, or widest point. This relationship is critical for maximum fire and brilliance: too small or too large a table can hamper the diamond's ability to disperse light properly and make it appear smaller for its weight. Table percentage is often indicated on diamond grading reports.

Tachymeter (also Tachometer) - A watch function that measures the speed at which the wearer traveled by means of a numeric scale on the watch bezel of a chronograph. Frequently used to determine the speed of a car over a measured distance.

Tank Watch - A rectangular watch with heavier bars on either side of the dial, inspired by the tank tracks of World War I and first created by Louis Cartier.

Telemeter - A watch function that finds the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachymeter, a telemeter consists of a stopwatch function and a special scale on the dial of a chronograph.

Tension Setting - This setting uses pressure to hold a stone between two open ends of the metal mounting, making the stone appear as if it's floating.

Titanium - The "space-age" metal, often with a silvery-gray appearance. Because it is 30% stronger and nearly 50% lighter than steel it has been increasingly used in watchmaking, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to saltwater corrosion makes it particularly useful in diver's watches. Since it can be scratched fairly easily, some manufacturers use a patented coating to resist scratching.

Tonneau Watch - A watch with a barrel-shaped watchcase and two convex sides.

Tourbillon - A device in some mechanical watches that eliminates timekeeping errors caused by slight variations due to shifts in gravity when a watch changes position during use. The round carriage, or "cage," of the tourbillon holds the mechanisms that rotate the wheels, and thus the hands of the watch, in a continuous rate of once per minute.

Trilliant Cut - A type of brilliant fancy shape that is triangular.

U

V

V.H.P - Very High Precision. A quartz movement with a temperature sensor to keep rate variations to within extremely narrow margins. The movement corrects itself to a precision of ±10 seconds a year.

Valuation Report - A written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of diamond jewellery, which may be used for insurance coverage or other purposes. It is not the same as a grading report, which evaluates a diamond’s characteristics (such as cut, clarity, carat, symmetry, etc.). Grading reports do not provide any suggestion of monetary value, only quality.

Vibration (or Oscilation) - A watch vibrates 18,000 times an hour and beats five times a second.

W

Watchcase (or Case) - The metal housing that contains the internal parts, or works, of a watch. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used, but titanium, gold, silver and platinum can also be used. Less expensive watches are usually made of brass that has been plated with gold or silver.

Water Resistance - The ability to withstand splashes of water.

Waterproof - An illegal and misused term. No watch is 100 percent waterproof. Watches are usually designated to be water-resistant to varying degrees. The depth a watch will resist water is listed in feet or meters (usually on the case back). See Water-Resistance.

White Gold - Created from yellow gold by incorporating either nickel or palladium into the alloy to achieve a white colour. Most watches made of white gold are 18K.

White On - An analog watch that is able to display digital functions at the touch of a button. An easily legible white numeric display appears on the inside surface of the crystal when any digital function is activated.

World Timers - A watch with a dial that indicates up to 24 time zones around the world, usually found on the outer edge of the face or sometimes on the bezel. Time zones around the world are indicated by major cities.

X

Y

Yellow Gold - The traditionally popular gold used in all gold, gold-and-stainless-steel or other precious metal combinations. Yellow gold watches may be found in 14K or, at Fortrez only 18K is used for Jewellery.

Z